

\ 






y 

JOSEPH FREGA 

AUTHOR OP A NEW 

SYSTEM FOR TAILORS 

With its relative teaching of the fashion, 

Patented by the United States Government. 



Division of personal measures according to 
the new method and new patented squares. 



%* 



Patent, March 24, 1885. 



NEW YOEK. 
1885. 



A 




JOSEPH FI\EGA. 



i*i> n "0l 



Signature, 



INDEX. 



Preface ... page 1 

Demands and dilucidations " 5 

Dilucidations in the exposition of the inven- 
tion and ideas 5 

Observation on the study made " 6 

Exceptions, description, fashion and practice. 7 

Examination of the new geometry " 8 

Demonstration of the measure " 

Knowledge necessary to publications " H) 

Notice to persons desiring to teach this me- 
thod after my permission " 11 

Useful notices to be considered before begin- 
ning the execution . . " 11 

Explanation of the squares first interesting 

square , " 12 

Demonstration and theory of the first square. 

— Theory the first ". " 13 

Notices for defective persons " 13 

Second demonstration of the same square. — 

Theory the second " 13 

Demonstration on the shape and position of 

the body. — Theory the third " 14 

Demonstration of pieces in every model — 

Theory the fourth " 14 

General nomenclature. - Theory the fifth ... " 16 
For persons defective in neck and shoulders — 

Theory the sixth " 18 



f 

II. 



Manner to place the rectangle. — Demonstra- 
tion and division of the falls. — Theory 
the seventh " 18 

How the second square must be used. -Theory 

the eighth '. " 19 

Explanation about the third square. - Theory 

the ninth " 20 

Explanation of the fourth square. — Theory 

the tenth , ' "■ 20 

Explanation of the fifth square. — Theory the 

eleventh : " 21 

Explanation and demonstration of the sixth 

square. - Theory the twelfth " 21 

Explanation of the seventh square. — Theory 

the thirteenth " 22 

Little machine good to execute circles of every 

size. — Theory the fourteenth " 22 

Demonstration of the eighth square. - Theory 

the fifteenth ... .'. " 22 

Demonstration about the gonnellini. - Theory 

the sixteenth " 28 

Logical talk. - Theory seventeenth " 23 

Theory and practical execution in the sleeves 

— Theory the eighteenth " 24 

New geometrical method for pants. — Theory 

the nineteenth " 26 

Other demonstrations. - Theory the twentieth " 27 

Conclusion " 29 

Knowledge about the diameter of ev^ry cir- 
cumference " 29 

Knowledge scale how to know the circumfe- 
rence and diameter " 30 



NEW GEOMETRICAL SYSTEM 

—FOR — 

il!lHl f 

With Annexed Relative Instruction About Fashion. 



Exposition of Personal Measures, with a New 
Method and Personal Squares. 



Geometrical and Arithmetical Study of Propor 

tions with rays and Diameters of all Shapes ; 

Rules to Find their Superficies, the most 

Exactly Possible. 



Gentlemen : 

I beg your pardon, if I dare to appear before you 
with a publication. Perhaps somebody inclines to 
criticise it, without any accurate examination of the 
same, and without taking the care of seeing if the 
exposed principles may be of some utility for our 
society or not. To such a man I say : should you be 
not in degree of understanding my statements, come 
to see me, and I will be very glad to give the 
information you will need. But don't despise the 
alacre artist, who worked hard in order to discover 
the means capable of affording the desired perfection, 
and praise him if you think he is praiseworth, other- 
wise make a reasonable criticism. 

With such a hope, I give to my kind readers my 
best thanks and my respectful regards. 

Yours respectfully, 

JOSEPH FREGA. 



The humble writer would be very glad, as everyone 
who studies and peruses, to see the product of his 
meditations put in the knowledge of all who like per- 
fection and improvement ; and at the same time to 
attire the attention of those who are of a discipline 
ignorant. Consequently, I would be proud to call on 
these lines the eyes of the tailors, my brothers, for the 
purpose of showing to them what amelioration I have 
secured to our art But above all, I must say that, 
until now, nobody was able to give foundation to such 
an exact geometry, which could explain in the most 
simple and plain way all the mysteries of the propor- 
tions and divisions in our art. If somebody affirms 
so, he is mistaken. 

From some geometrical treaties, it appears that the 
three circumferences of chest, life and trunk should 
be able, according to their ideal system, to make the 
full dress. If such a theory was right, we would not 
need other and several measures, in length especially; 
but we see that we require so many of tnem, that we 
must come to the conclusion that the system is an 
imperfect one, except for those artists skillful in the 
trade and furnished with a large personal ability. 
Now, the trouble is that nobody undertook to study 
geometry in its essence, so that to give the reader the 
capacity of fully understanding the rules and pre- 
cepts. I would scarcely say to put the learner in a 
degree of cutting after the change of a new fashion* 
except for those furnished of sufficient natural genius, 
and who are able to modify or correct according to 
their own judgment 

All those who began a study like that, deceived and 



deluded, because their aim was that of drawing profit 
from the pretense of exposing a noble science, but the 
public did not receive any help. 

Moreover, these photographical schools, who inces- 
santly give inventions of fashions and pictury, have to 
be praised for the amelioration, but their duty is that 
of helping the tailors with easy and sure geometrical 
rules from which springs the vitality of their com- 
merce. 

Instead of all that, the photographical schools al- 
ways make a liberal show of thousands illusory fan- 
thoms, on the purpose of making you understand bu* 
a little of what their skillful genius did produce : the 
consequence is that people have to go to them for ex- 
planations, and then rewards are given and the busi- 
ness improves. 

Let me say that those men, with all their demons- 
trations, notwitnstanding their efforts to make people 
believe their ability are not in degree of giving good 
suggestions, because they know very little of the 
tailor business. 

The secret of my theory is this : to let the appren- 
tices understand that the entire tailor art consists in 
cornices of different shapes, varied by the fashion with so 
many falls and figures. 

If you don't give faith to my words, admire their 
geometrical figures, carefully prepared, but in an open 
contradiction with what they stated beforehand, with- 
out giving the necessary instruction or idea to correct 
and modify according to the position. 

Now, I abstain by giving the evident proof, reserved 
to be shown in case of provocation : should anybody 



believe himself possessed of the knowledge of the 
tailor art, after having cut a great many dresses and 
habits, I would say to him that he came near the per- 
fection only by practice, and not by studying the theory 
which enables him to perform models of every shape. 

But, my dear gentlemen, I have to tell you one 
thing in order to have your attention attracted on 
these lines, in which a new geometry is exposed. I 
will tell you that it is impossible to give foundation 
to a new theory, if it is not supported by good reason 
and sound principle ; and, in our matter, helped by 
the reflection in everything pertaining to algebra, 
arithmetic or geometrical proportions. 

Gentlemen, what is geometry ? What is the geo- 
metry given by everyone ? A proof or experiment of 
models and figures with division or partition accord- 
ing to our own judgment. But my geometry has been 
exposed with evidence of proofs with irrefutable, clear, 
and full conscience, so that without any trouble at 
all, you can have models fitting to all the persons you 
have measured, with marvelous exactitude and pre- 
cision. 

Having been my geometry founded on the arith- 
metic calcul, it is very' easy to find through its prin- 
ciples the quantity of a superficie and have it covered 
with stuff. After reading this method, it will be rend- 
ered very easy the truthfulness ol this assertion : all 
is based in finding the different rays of a geometrical 
figure. Then you can obtain a similar one with the 
same position or shape, according to the rules, forms 
and instructions which every good tailor initiated to 
arithmetical or geometrical disciplines must know. 



DEMANDS AND DILUCIDATIONS. 

What is the human body ? What is its shape % 
It is of cylindrical shape, but irregular, with other 
branches of the same shape, pertaining to it, called 
arms and neck. The body in which you can very 
easily find rays and diameters, and consequently divi- 
sions and superficie with all the possible exactness, is 
a cylindrical one. Everyone can know the meaning of 
my exposition, and of course can be able to find the 
superficy of every piece of a shape whatever. 

Gentlemen : I am positive in assuring you that a 
tailor with arithmetical knowledge may be in degree 
of giving foundation to a geometry, according to which, 
being so easy to find the partitions and divisions, 
every person, no matter what the age or the ability 
of a tailor may be, he can put in practice, provided 
they adopt my methods and models, fitting with all 
the possible exactness. 



DILUCIDATIONS IN THE EXPOSITION OF 
THE INVENTION AND IDEAS. 

My method.— Take the measure with a little ma- 
chine, that divides the human body in four divisions : 
you will see the distinction among shoulders, belly, 
chest and inferior side, whatever the shape of a per- 
son may be ; you will obtain the above said circum- 
ferences, divided with the geometrical rule, which is 
uncertain. This little machine will have an axle, 
ended in a point for the length of a centimeter : with 
that point you can obtain all the divisions of the 
human body with their rays, which you can easily 



place in the geometrical figure, and the shape of the 
person you have measured. It will give you also the 
measure of falls and positions through other engines, 
by the same contained. I have also invented several 
squares and little machines, with other utensils, all 
patented, by which you are helped in the practice, ac- 
cording to the cutting of the dresses, for obtaining 
the lines and the shapes, that a drawing mater can- 
not have at once. 

Each one of those squares has its reasons and prac- 
tical exposition, of which I will speak. Moreover, I 
will have a very useful square for pants, that repres- 
ents the models with such a precision to defy the 
printing itself. Important for cutting pants, as much 
for exactness of the lines than for the usefulness in 
wearing said pants without errors in the execution. 



OBSEEYATION ON THE STUDY MADE. 

Gentlemem : My geometry don't give any annoy- 
ance to learners ; it is rather amusing, because its ex- 
position is so easy, and you can see the reason so 
clear and evident at once. The trouble is for the in- 
dividual who discovered the truth. 

I would like to prepare a long publication, but I re- 
ject this idea, only because I know that the principal 
merit of a work whatever is the conciseness and the 
speed through which you can come very rapidly to 
your conclusion. 

The advantage for tailors, who actually are in exer. 
cise, and employed is a great one, enabling them to 
cut without mistakes. 

I hope that everybody will give their attention, 



those excepted, who like not the light and progress^ 
but ignorance. For them it would be better to come 
forward and try to learn something new, especially 
when a man is introducing to you an easy, new, rapid 
method, capable of affording improvement and show- 
ing all proportions in the measures at one glance. 



EXCEPTIONS, DESCEIPTION, FASHION 
AND PRACTICE. 

To the kind readers possessing the technical knowledge 
in the Tailor Business : 

I am exposing a work, spoiled with elegance, but 
useful in all times, among all people, in this new 
country especially, where illusion sometimes steals 
the place to the truth. 

But encouraged by the desire of establishing a new 
method, though alone and humble, I begin my rapid 
demonstration. There is nothing complicated or 
mixed up ; here is an easy operation. By the help of 
the newly invented squares you obtain a division very 
precise, with a clear, easy method, out of the risk to 
be forgotten. 

There is no danger in buttoning or rebuttoning the 
cloths, where you can see the usual mistakes when 
the division has not been made by the square, accord- 
ing to the position of the body ; the geometrical fig- 
ure is not divided up in three circumferences as the 
teaching of my method requires. After this you have 
the dimensions of the chest, body and trunk, the 
most exact possible — you see the variations in the di- 
mensions or the augmentations, and if these take 
place in the forehead, belly, shoulders or back — you 



8 

can have the regular shape of the body to be dressed, 
so that you can avoid all mistakes, that is not prac- 
ticible, but the true exposed theory. 

The American and French systems have themselves 
their particular method of division, but my square, 
for its clearness of execution in marking when the 
measure increases or diminishes, has no equal. The 
more you know about geometry, the more you learn, 
especially if besides the study you are furnished with 
experience and genius. 

EXAMINATION OF THE NEW GEOMETTKY. 

The photographical schools, supported by so many 
utensils and instruments, are in^ degree of perform- 
ing ideal imaginations, splendid and lively : for us, 
executors, it is another thing, because we have to 
help ourselves by the observation, the columns, the 
exactness in the measures of a real person. The 
photographical schools have no control, like a clerk, 
who spends his master's money at his own will. 

But we have our control : consequently we must be 
very careful \ and employ judiciously, models and fig- 
ures, following the advices given in this little work, 
divested of all pretensions and elegance, 

Gentlemen ; I am glad to say, that besides the ex- 
position you can easily understand by reading it, I 
offer myself, in order to remove all difficulties and ob- 
jections, verbal and experimental explanation, by call- 
ing on me. Still, I am positive that after reading these 
lessons, no doubt will occupy the reader's mind, my 
method being so clear, enabling us to have excellency 
in the divisions and figures, as far as cutting every 
stuff upon my models, sure of a perfect execution. 



y 



I confide that the public will take interest in my in- 
vention ; what they will surely get, is a considerable 
economy of money and time, unavoidable when you 
meet with the errors of a false system. 

Being so short a time required by my method to be 
accurately learned, so that every apprentice may, in a 
little while, raise to the knowledge of one who is old 
in the trade, nobody will refuse to accept it. The 
only difficulty consists in the measures and divisions, 
but the squares, when judiciously employed, will help 
you marvellously. The private families could take 
advantage from this method for their girls, having es- 
tablished a place to give lessons at moderate rates. 



DEMONSTKATION OF THE MEASUKE. 

Jealousy among Artists — Geometrical School. 

Gentlemen : I hope that the public will not be hard 
with my system, whose excellency has been proved. 
I hope that countrymen of mine, Americaus and 
strangers will come and see the material and applica- 
tion of my instruments. I assure you that you will 
find models of such a precision, to satisfy the most 
whimsical lady, in the toilette. 

Bear in mind, be exact in taking the measure, and* 
ask if the habit must be worn away with the same 
network, or if a modification is desired. 

My kind readers, remember that in all my life I had 
the opportunity of making a great many reflections, 
which I desire to put at general profit. 

Above all, don't forget that any geometrical school 
is not able to give you an exact idea how to cut the 
cloths, if you are deprived of your own experience. 



10 



In every part of the world — in the greatest cities — I 
have lived, I never released myself by paying visits 
to the best tailors, who honar our art through their 
genius. Neither have I forgot to employ every means 
in order to get well acquainted with them, so close, as 
to discover their merits and peculiar manners. Some- 
times, I used to make arguments with them, in which 
I always tried to make my demonstrations as clear as 
possible. The heart of a civil person is not impaired 
by the worm of envy. I never was jealous of any- 
body, but I took advantage by employing my obser- 
vation, in order to improve in my trade. I always 
made use of a particular industry in discovering the 
degree of other people's perfection and put it in com- 
parison with my own. 

But the unfair truth is, that both in the United 
States as in South America, the greatest part of our 
brothers in the trade are jealous of each other, and 
everyone thinks himself the best. There are, luckly 
plenty of exceptions, and I know distinguished meu 
who do their best to help and instruct iguorant people. 
As for me, here I am, ready to instruct and explain 
and render my method the most rational and solid 
one known by all. Come, dear brothers, and you will 
see how simple is my manner in cutting, easy to be 
learned, without difficulty and trouble. 



KNOWLEDGE NECESSARY TO PUBLICATIONS 

Respectable Ladies : — 

Followers of the fashion, I abstain by writing 
about it so many words, as they usually do, illusory 
and void. When a youth, I used to be a cutter in all 



11 



kinds ; esteemed as I was by every family, on account 
of my irreproachable exactness in cutting cloths, and 
the patience by which I used to arrange flocks and or- 
naments in the chest for dancing cloths, the puffs in 
the back, so that you could use them at your pleasure 
I then transacted a splendid business. 

Now, I have to add that great care must be taken in 
the measure of dresses and overcoats, being in need 
of no models, as so mauy use to do. If anyone em- 
ployed in a great manufactory has any doubt about 
my method, iet him come and by the help of some 
pictures he will be out of trouble. 



NOTICE TO PERSONS DESIRING TO TEACH 
THIS METHOD AFTER MY PERMISSION. 

Having at length proved the great amelioration af- 
forded by my method, should anybody be willing to 
teach this method in the town or city where he lives, 
I am glad to say that 1 will gaanl him a patent, a copy 
of that granted to me by the United States Govern- 
ment. 



USEFUL NOTICES TO BE CONSIDERED 
BEFORE BEGINNING THE EXECUTION. 

Before the explanation of the pieces, mind that the 
rectangle must be two inches greater, viz., one-half 
an inch (the quarter) ; a quarter in the posterior 
part ; an inch for two internal seams, so that you 
have the two inches above said. Moreover if you 
take a tighter measure, you must consider the deep- 
ness of the lining, in order to obtain an exact result. 



12 



I know that eveiy one has his own use in taking the 
measure, but I would let u nderstand that it must be 
always free. Placing the rectangle with the position 
of the falls and lenghts, mind that the vertical line 
must come in the quarter of the shoulder (quarter 
of the back). If you proceed in different manner, the 
circumferences will be not exact, and the result no 
good. 

If you are a milliner you must employ a greater 
attention in taking the measures, especially in the 
chest, where the execution must stick to the measure; 
a little less in the life ; in the bust a little more, in 
order to have not mixed the several circonferences in 
the habit, which, being too tight, would look not well. 



EXPLANATION OF THE SQUARES. 

FIRST INTERESTING SQUARE. 

The first brass square is the must interesting ; it 
gives measures and divisions quite exact. It will be 
fixed the arms : it has a small moveable staff and a 
fixed one. The latter must be placed in front. In 
the angle of such a staff is apivot, pointed, which 
enter in a second pivot, in order to keep the square 
in a vertical position. Then the second little staff is 
closed up to measure the deepness of the arm : after- 
wards an other small staff is downed and so you 
obtain a rectangle, in which you can draw an exact 
circle in the very side, without any danger to touch 
any side. 

In the pivot of the fixed staff is another point, by 
which you take all the rays you want, according the 
difficulty you can observe. 



13 



DEMONSTRATION AND THEORY OF THE 
FIRST SQUARE. 

THEOEY THE FIRST, 

As for instance in the theory of the rays in the first 
figure : the front rays are A, B, C, D, E. Take the 
angle F and you obtain the prospect rays : turning 
the centimeter in order to take the rays of the shoul- 
der, beginning from the flank according to the demon- 
stration of the rays G, L y F, M, so you have all the 
rays of the rectangle, with placement of points in the 
shape of the person. 



NOTICES FOR DEFECTIVE PERSONS. 

Let us consider a man too thin in the shoulder, and 
a humped-backed one, between the points F; and M. 
It is necessary to have another point, in order to sign 
the position with more precision. If the man is a 
hump-backed one, the fall in the back must be longer 
than the quarter, the flank a little shorter in its supe- 
rior part. 

Should the person be a thin one, the line of the 
shoulder must be the most vertical possible : a little 
less than the fall of the shoulder, in order to have the 
same interval, with no fold at all. 



SECOND DEMONSTRATION OF THE SAME 
SQUARE. 

THEORY THE SECOND. 

Said square has a, small staff, which may be turned 
in a vertical position under the arm, and which you 
can see in the theory, placing an inch and a half far 



14 



from the pivot of the fixed staff. It represents the 
central point of every ray. Fixing such a staff with 
a line, in the exception, you will obtain the figure 
with exact divisions and shapes. 



DEMONSTRATION ON THE SHAPE AND POSI- 
TION OF THE BODY. 

THEORY THE THIRD. 

Practicing in the exposed manner^ so easy, in the 
division of the body, it is clear that you can direct 
the measure according to the position of the body it- 
self. Following such a rule, no matter if the person 
is a thin or a fat or a hump-backed one, the circum- 
ferences will be always regular, and the superficy 
true. 

Placing the point of the vertical small staff, the 
flank, shoulders, front side, etc., will be exactly ob- 
tained, and so the shape of the entire body. 

The vertical line represents the staff. Consider the 
circumferences B, N, J, — A, G, L, — and P, 0, Q. We 
have obtained them not according to the common 
geometry rules, but measuring the spaces between 
N, B,-N, J—G, 0—G, L,— 0, P,— 0, Q. So in a 
more efficient manner, you have the wanted results, 
and you know what is the shape of the person. 



DEMONSTEATION OF PIECES IN EVEEY 
MODEL. 

THEORY THE FOURTH. 

With my method of division, placing the central 
point, which is the pivot of the fixed small staff, then 



15 



the vertical one, you can find the position of the 
body, as the little tonic. Placing the rectangle, you 
can have every cut — for women, if dress and cloak- 
makers, and for men, if tailors. But never forget to 
be scrupulous in the measure, for it is this that the 
business depends on. 

The waistcoat may be executed on the same rect- 
angle, but it must be a little larger in the neck, in or- 
der to avoid a new trouble in the division. 

Desiring to cut two or three different cloths at once, 
take double paper and make the division of all of 
them ; then use a small invented wheel, which marks 
them one by one ; take off the first and mark the sec- 
ond ; take off this other and you see the third already 
marked with chalk. 

Take advantage of this method : you don't need a 
long experience, because the practice is so easy and 
clear. 

The first and second figures have the same move- 
ment in every position, as it is seen in B, H y P, — B, 
C~D, E,—E, F,—X, U,—X, Z,—M, J, L, S, B—S, 
S. The same is the movement for every cut, but the 
dress and cloak maker will consider some variations 
in the internal side. 

As you see considering the measures A, J, — G, L, 
0, Q, — the three semi-circumferences of the shoulders 
may be found by the movement of the square pieces : 
in the same manner may be found the measures N, B> 
G, A, — O. P. In the movement 0, P, that in the front 
side will let you know if the person is thin or fat — the 
other 0, T, Q, what is the greatness of the back — 0, 
P, signs the line you must draw, and as it must be 



16 



directed between A, B, and B, G. When the person 
is too fat make a rapid movement, and diminish in 
the flank what you have increased in front; beat. well 
in the shoulders ; take more than the measure shows, 
so that you can have the quarter in its true position 
with a longitudinal fall, without shortening the quar- 
ter ; so you may do for persons who prefer a large fall 
in the chest, or a large internal in the flanks. 

To be surer between the point B, G, you measure 
the height of the point C, which has to be found in 
the right place. 

If it is a ladies dress, pay attention to the measures 
of the posterior lengths in the quarter, as in the an- 
terior ones : but you must pay the greatest atten- 
tion, not only to obtain the proper fitness in the neck, 
but also for the position of the chest : therefore, be- 
sides the position C, B, — A, P, and J3, A, we must fix 
the point of the chest according to the position of the 
person. 

My method will show you the most plain way in 
the execution of the falls, borders or brims, folds and 
so many c ther advantages of less importance. 



GENERAL NOMENCLATURE. 

THEORY THE FIFTH. 

After we have done all that, an exact folding of the 
chest is desired. You can have it after you have found 
the point G. Inquire about the number of the neck, 
and curb the centimeter accordingly, in order to have 
a circle by the guide of a ray. He, who is not furnished 
with a sufficient arthmetical knowledge, will be a little 
puzzled. Ask how high the neck must be and how 



17 



the under-neck of the habit must be placed ; then you 
make a general calculation, and you draw accordingly 
the square between H, D, which will determine the 
fall of the chest. Being not used in repeating what 
has been explained, mind that when you take the ray 
B t 31, make it not very exactly, in order to have the 
right measure ; all that will give you a nice execution 
around the neck; and the anterior quarter will fall 
vertically. Moreover, the posterior quarter will be 
placed in its right way, and the full dress will look 
nicely. You must remember that the part of the 
habit pertaining to the shoulder and neck is right in 
proportion with the vertical position of the posterior 
quarter, so that the more the quarter is tight, the 
more the under part of the dress must be retained, 
otherwise it will be opened. The under part of the 
dress (gonnellino) may be cut as a ball shape or in a 
cylindrical one; some are semi- curved in the superior 
part and have a great circumference below ; some 
have a smaller circumference underneath ; some have 
a cylindrical fall, which you can perform by paying at- 
tention to the point G, that must be repressed and 
not swell up. 

Proceeding in this way, the gonnellino will keep 
regularly in its own way, and will fit to the person ad- 
mirably. 

My dear reader, you will please to pay atten- 
tion to what I have said : I am acquainted with 
so many persons, who are ignorant of these rules; 
their works are defective, and then they have 
great trouble in correcting them. Men, on the con- 
trary, who are acquainted with rules, are always sure 



18 



of their work, and do not have the displeasure of per- 
ceiving any mistake. 



FOE PERSONS DEFECTIVE IN NECK AND 
SHOULDERS. 

THEORY THE SIXTH. 

If a person is defective in the neck, mark in what 
side it arises and on what side it comes down. In the 
first case, cut half an inch, which has to be allowed to 
the quarter. In the other case proceed in an inverse 
manner. Observe the right measure for the shoulder 
under the side where the neck is inclined ; the same 
is for the shoulder a little higher. The prudent 
tailor will be very cautious, but I write for those who 
don't care for some important observations, and then 
they can unreasonably criticise my methods. 



MANNER TO PLACE THE RECTANGLE- 
DEMONSTRATION AND DIVISION 
OF THE FALLS. 

THEORY THE SEVENTH. 

Now I will speak about the cause of so many errors? 
caused by the wrong placement of the rectangle. 

Taking the measure with the first square, consider 
the deepness and the height of the arm, for instance, 
if I say : take foua inches in .breadth; the turn must 
not be of four inches, but the seams must be accord- 
ing to the stuff, if you want to have an exact circum- 
ference, considering that the seams in the back and in 
the flank are equal in breadth and height with the 
expression D, B. 



19 



The mariner to proceed is this : place the rectangle, 
which you obtain by discomposing the measures, and 
you will see the variations between the sleeves and 
the fall in the shoulders. Consider that the more you 
lower the posterior fall, between the angle D, V, the 
more you must rise the quarter B, J. The director 
of the work has to keep all that into his mind and 
have it exactly observed in practicing. Lower the 
fall in the back between D, V, in order to have a suf- 
ficient largeness in the shoulders. Some use to make 
the cloths very tight in the shoulders, but it is a great 
error, caused by placing the point if in the lengths 
31, J, L. an inch under the line. Such a dress is con- 
venient for exquisites, not for gentlemen. 

It is better still, to take your ray in the point M, 
draw by the machine the convenient line, and then 
make the posterior fall, according as it is signed by 
the machine in the extremity of the quarter. 



HOW THE SECONDiSQUARE MUST BE USED. 

THEORY THE EIGHTH. 

The second square is used independently of the 
theory of the movements. It has two lines, that of the 
superior part, and of the inferior one. 

Place the rectangle of the quarter with its conveni- 
ent vertical line, then draw in square the line L, Z, 
and from the same line, rise in square line to the line 
Z, as far as the little sign, proportionally to the back 
side : 2|, 3^ or 4 inches ; then take said square and 
place it between the interval of the little sign and Y: 
put it in movement upward and downward according 



20 



to your own judgment. Mark a cross in the first 
internal curved line of the square, then the external 
curved line, and place it in right position to the first 
sign even to the second line ; then trace the curved 
line of the flank, keeping the same position between 
the first marked line and the internal curved line of 
the square, and you obtain by the movement of the 
measure X, £7, and X, Z } an exact flank, which will fit 
irreproachably to the person. 



EXPLANATION ABOUT THE THIRD SQUARE. 

THEORY THE NINTH. 

The third square is useful to jacket or overcoat or 
chemis both for woman or man. It has in the middle 
a line, that works the central part of the body ; it has 
two principal movements, the first according to the 
measure required ; the second according to the exig- 
ency of the^bust, as you see in the points R T S, and 
S, T. 

Repeating the operation at several reprises you 
can obtain the linealj precision, for the back as for 
the quarter. 

Mind that the square is moved between the latter 
and the trunk. If you desire a greater circumference, 
mark the line or diminish it, without causing any 
mistake. 



EXPLANATION OF THE FOURTH SQUARE. 

THEORY THE TENTH. 

The little square will help # you in obtain exact falls 
in great speed, both in the quarter than in the back : 



21 



in the same time it gives the measures of the fwo 
falls exactly, because it is numbered in the same 
manner in the curved side and in the semi-right one. 

This square has, like the others, two movements, 
and according is required by the measure of the ray 
of the pivot and the points M and F. 

Such an application will give you the intervals of 
the fall in the back and in the quarter. 



EXPLANATION OF THE FIFTH SQUARE. 

THEOEY THE ELEVENTH. 

The little square gives the curved line convenient 
to the grace of the little chests. Place it between 
the points D and C and be sure of the result. 



EXPLANATION AND DEMOSTRATION 
^OF THE SIXTH SQUARE. 

THEORY THE TWELFTH. 

This square has the privilege of giving the most 
perfect execution of the; chest, in two or in one : no 
matter if you are practising since ten years ago, or 
you begin now. 

The two lines, which at their end meet each other, 
sign the reprise in the cut at one chest. The 
first line marks the position of the point, which is 
convenient both for a single than foi a double chest : 
the second line shows the position of the reprise in a 
double chest only. It is a sure guide in the execu- 
tion of the broken chests, depending that by the posi- 
tion of the body. The little sign mark the end of the 
collar in the single chest, the other for marking the 



22 



extention of the same. But in this, an useful instruc- 
tion is given by the falls and the measures. 



EXPLANATION OF THE SEVENTH SQUARE. 

THEOKY THE THIRTEENTH. 

The little square is important for the chests in the 
summer cloths, with long neck. 

. The chest is folded deeply with a semi-curved line 
in its superior part. With the same square you can 
amend this important part of the dress of every 
mistake. 

LITTLE MACHINE GOOD TO EXECUTE 
CIRCLES OF EVERY jSIZE. 

THEORY THE FOURTEENTH. 

I have also prepared a little machine, which may 
be enlarged or closed at your own pleasure, designing 
all kinds of circles, without changing the direction in 
the movement. Such a machine must be placed at 
the extremity of the quarter near the pivot, a little 
below the line of the circle in the fall. You will ob- 
tain in a sudden a regular circle, which a drawing- 
master cannot obtain in such a little while. 



DEMONSTRATION OF THE EIGHTH SQUARE. 

THEORY THE FIFTEENTH. 

I have a very useful square for pants, which gives 
such a perfection in the execution, as to be said that 
a pair of pants have been executed by a painter. It 
is proper to give grace to the front quarters and to the 
superior ones. 



23 



You place it on the line E, S, D, in a parallel posi- 
tion with the line of the square ; so you obtain as it 
is seen in the points C, E } a perfect squarcio in the 
fintone. 

But mind that you must know the geometry of the 
pants theory which is widely exposed in this treatise, 

This square may be used in pants belonging to every 
person ; use the most eurved part for the fat men, 
with the same method of movement, and you need not 
be afraid of any mistake. 



DEMONSTRATION ABOUT THE GONNELLINI. 

THEOEY THE SIXTEENTH. 

It is easy to obtain every shape of gonnellino, re- 
membering the exposed reasoning, only you must pay 
attention to the points G, C, 0, E, in order to know 
the position of the buttocks and in the marked point 
draw the curved line of the gonnellino between the 
points C, E ; draw below it the semi-rectanguler line, 
according to the cut of the habit which is desired, 
the length of the gonnellino and the shape requested. 

As for the habit closed or ^opened in front, mind 
that you must know how much it must be opened ; 
mark the point, and then mark, for instance, four in- 
ches with the exact proportion, beginning from the 
points P, 0, with the relative fall in the back. 



LOGICAL TALK. 

THEORY THE SEVENTEENTH. 

I think that the reader will give to himself an ex- 



24 



act" account of my method, supported by so many 
reasons. 

By the help of such a demonstration you may 
understand that from my method of placing the rect- 
angle is originated an exact quotient, which is the 
breadth of the shoulders. Here is the relative de- 
monstration. Having a control point from which every 
ray is originated, it is clear that it has originated the 
point B, too ; fixing the depth of the arm, marked 
with the point 2),* we can know the point F, or the 
distance between Y and Y, excepted for the defective 
persons, the hump-backed especially. 

By the ^scrupulous application of the given rules, 
you may see at once if any error has taken place, for 
instance in the sleeves, which you can correct, together 
with the errors in the rectangle or in the measure. 

Gentlemen, as for the bust, I have told you so many 
advices, that it is of no use to repeat again. But I 
beg to pay your attention to this method, a little diffi- 
cult, perhaps at first, but after a while it will be very 
clear and plain. 

But until now, the habit is not complete ; it leaves 
the sleeves, the most, difficult part of it, from which 
so many errors can be created, as the following will 
show : 

THEOBY AND PEACTICAL EXECUTION IN 
THE SLEEVES. 

THEORY THE EIGHTEENTH. 

I have so well studied the division of the sleeve, 
and I have come to the conclusion that an average in 
certain measure may give] you sleeves of surprising 



25 



perfection with regular precision and fall. 

Here you have the demonstratian. Mark what is 
the height between the point D and the pivot : so 
long must be the inferior part of the under arm, sign- 
ing it with a line made square. But as the superior 
part of the arm wants three inches more, mark | of 
an inch upon said line, in order to have the curved 
line of the superior arm meet with the second line. 

This is known to everybody :; the sleeve depends on 
the height of the shoulder, which explains to you at 
once the height required. 

Now, I have to show the position of the breadth 
between the fall of the shoulders and that of the 
front. 

The front division is begun from the pivot as far as 
the center of the fall in the shoulder, which is marked 
by the sign * and from this sign an inch under the 
seom of the back shoulder, marked with the sign * 
See if from one inch under the seam of the back you 
have three inches or more, and establish the propor- 
tion accordingly, which is marked by the point B, 
that marks the same division center shoulder signed by 
* and that expressed by B. 

You have observed that the sleeve has been per- 
formed in a manner, that the seam of the elbow has 
the same distance as the sign * center of the shoulder; 
viz : between the point B and the seam itself, which 
corresponds exactly to the sign * and one inch under 
the back seam. Then you proceed, beginning from 
the point B, as far as the point C, drawing a curved 
line. This gives an advantage and it makes you 
know two circumferences, always exact, through the 



26 



little machine. If you make these circumferences at 
sight, you may incur mistakes, as so many tailors, who 
r epute themselves skillful enough to perform every- 
thing. But the mistakes take place, and then you 
have a great trouble in having them corrected ; or the 
proud tailor will impute them to the men he has under 
his direction, in order to save his reputation. 

But my method in working the sleeves, is so easy, 
that everybody can go on without no trouble at all, 
and make sleeves of all sizes. 



NEW GEOMETKICAL METHOD FOE PANTS. 

THEORY THE NINETEENTH. 

After a complete expositian^of what is pertaining to 
overgarments, let me come now to another important 
part of our dress — the pants. What has been said 
before must be remembered now : it is, that my 
method for simplicity and clearness outdoes all 
methods. 

What is a true definition of the pants ? 

They are a cylindrical body, which is divided up in 
two branches, | covering the legs, whose execution is 
various according to the fashion. But that manner is 
good, that results in satisfaction for exactness and 
falls. 

I let aside so many proportions and observations 
sometimes so puzzling. I will talk about the con- 
struction of the trunk, also, that of the legs, to be 
considered in two different parties : the superior and 
the inferior quarters. 

Now, if I ask to some geometrical tailors, so learned 



27 



in proportions and divisions : is the circumference of 
the thigh equal to half a part of the circumference of 
the trunk, they will answer, of course ; no ! But not- 
withstanding the difference, the division will- be very 
easy, supposted by a few rules, for instance, we have 
this measure of a pair of pants : cincture, 34 ; trunk, 
40 ; thigh, 25 ; remembering that the pants may be 
divided in four. In order to avoid mistakes, consider 
the fourth of each part ; so for the 34 we have the 
fourth as 84 ; 10 for the 40 ; 13| for 25, the half, not 
one,fourth, because as we said, the latter has two 
parts only, now four as the measure of the cincture 
and of the trunk. 



OTHER DEMONSTRATIONS. 

THEORY THE TWENTIETH. 

Having explained everything, now we can begin the 
demonstration as to execute. 

Place the rectangle according, we are instructed for 
all; -draw the square line H, B y and B, A, U. Mark 
the spur with the points D, (7, the knee with A, G, 
and the entire length with N t U. Then in the line of 
the spur D, C, which represents the width of the quar- 
ter of the trunk, mark the line C, E. Then taking the 
fourth of the cincture 8J, beginning from -the point 
E, as far as the cipher 8|, mark the curved line R, D, 
minding the space required by the seams, in two in- 
ches almost. Now we are through with the quarter 
laying between cincture and bust : it follows the divi- 
sion of the spur, very easy to be obtained, if you pro- 
ceed with simplicity and correctness. 

Let us consider now the circumference, which is 



28 



divided up in four parts ; take one-quarter, two more 
for the thighs, and see what is the difference between 
the quarter of the trunk and the half ]of the thigh ; it 
may be of 2^ or more, and you execute the spur ac- 
cordingly. In such a manner the division will be a 
regular one. 

Be what may be, the division is always equal, pro- 
vided it will be the same in both parties. 

Pay your attention to the letters C, Z; mark the 
height of the angle at its third part, and see the dif- 
ference between the half part ol the thigh and the 
quartes of the. trunk ; if it is 2J, mark 3| the height 
between 0, F, and 1 for what it takes by the seam ; 
make the quarter of the fintone for the grace of the 
quarter. 

The pants will fit nicely to the person, if all the 
given rules will be observed, and the diameter of the 
circumference well measured, which you find in the 
points E y H. If it is 3|, add 3| to the measure of the 
line H. If the diameter is 12^ of the circumference, 
No. 40, mark with 12J the distance between H, E. So 
you have obtained the parts with the relative diame- 
ter ; chnsider that the semi-curved line begins from 
B, J, E : the height of the same from J t C. So you 
make the* quarter with a little variation. Make the 
height of the line F, L, equal to the difference be- 
tween the half part of the circumference of the thigh 
with the quarter of the trunk, besides the space occu- 
pied by the seam. 

We have to establish the distance between the point 
J, M, that represents the quarter of the cincture of 
the inferior quarter. It must not be equal to the 



29 



cincture itself, but that it be convenient for the re- 
prise. It is best to make it equal to the difference 
between the quarter of the cincture and that of the 
trunk, but a little less. 



CONCLUSION. 

In order to have the pants very tight, nicely and 
properly arranged, the division must be not equal in 
width in both kneels, but from the exterior side one 
inch must be cut off and added to the interior part. 

As for the other parts, fintone, under— -fintone, spar 
even when you have to make pants for defective 
persons (ruptured or big-bellied) I have some observ- 
ations to make, reserved to be verbally exposed to 
those men who will personally call on me. By-and- 
by I will prepare some pictures good for the demos- 
tration of what is above said : then every body can 
spare to himself the trouble of paying me a visit. 



KNOWLEDGE ABOUT THE DIAMETER 
OF EVERY CIRCUMFERENCE. 

Bisedes the scala of evidence, presented to you, I 
will notify you the proportion by which you can 
obtain every circumference, proportionatly to a di- 
ameter : it is of thirty-one and a half per cent., viz., 
ten inches of circumference give three and one-eight 
of diameter, with a very small difference. When the 
shape is irregular, there will be the 10 per 100 more 
of diameter, viz., forty-one and a half. 



yo 



KNOWLEDGE SCALE 

HOW TO KNOW THE CIRCUNFERENCE AND DIAMETER 



Circn in- 
ference 


Diameter 


Circum- 
ference 


Diameter 


1 


2/8 X 1/16 


22 


6, '7/8 


2 


5/8 


24 


7, 1/2 


3 


7/8 X 1/16 


26 


8, 1/8 


4 


10/8 


28 


8, 6/8 


5 


12/8 X 1/16 


30 


9, 3/8 


.6 


15/8 


32 


10 


7 


17/8 X 1/16 


34 


10, 5/8 


8 


20/8 


m 


11, 1/4 


9 


22/8 X 1/16 


38 


11, 7/8 


10 


25/8 


40 


12, 1/2 


12 


3, 3/4 


42 


13, 1/8 


14 


4, 3/8 


44 


13, 3/4 


16 


5 


46 


14, 3/8 


18 


5, 5/8 


48 


15 


20 


6, 1/4 


50 


15, 5/8 



i 



f^l 



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c&f> 



4 8 




8 9 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 767 8 # 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 767 8 • 



